Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
